Kazakhstan

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Teams, tales and tips – a guide to the local game

As a capital city and a namesake football club, Nur-Sultan, until recently Astana, is a strikingly new concept. A planned governmental hub like Brasilia, the administrative centre for the vast nation of Kazakhstan, Nur-Sulta was laid out by Kisho Kurokawa, partly responsible for the radical look of post-war Japan. Its futuristic architecture includes the Astana Arena, home of FC Astana, both created in 2009. Also the national stadium for the world’s ninth largest country, the Astana Arena has witnessed the recent triumphs of its host club, champions of Kazakhstan for six consecutive years from 2014.

Kazakhstan’s decision to leave the Asian Football Confederation and join UEFA in 2002 has meant that Astana, named national capital five years before, has played host to Germany, Holland Sweden and Ireland in recent years. Plum fixtures now come to Nur-Sultan rather than the former capital, Almaty. Similarly, in beating Kairat Almaty to the title every season since 2014, FC Astana have been able to bring the likes of Benfica, Atlético Madrid and Galatasaray to the Astana Arena, playing out a draw each time in the group stage of the 2015-16 Champions League. The distance from Lisbon to Nur-Sultan is more than 6,000 kilometres, flight time at least 11 hours. For Benfica, a game in New York would be closer. For fans of European teams, a midweek trip to Nur-Sultan is a logistical and financial conundrum.

Siting its capital towards the border with Russia – Nur-Sultan is closer to Omsk than to Almaty – this energy-rich, sparsely populated country the size of western Europe has not only taken its parliamentary seat away from an earthquake zone but moved its soccer powerbase, too. Football was first played in Kazakhstan in Semipalatinsk, later renamed Semey, also by the border with Russia. But it was a combined team from Almaty, Sbornaya Alma-Ata, who won the first de facto national title in 1936, when it was open to teams from the Kazakh republic of the Soviet Union. Further wins were registered for Dinamo, Stroyitel, Spartak and ADK, all teams from Almaty. In what was then Tsenilograd, the future Astana, a stadium had been built in 1936 for cavalry training. Later named Kazhymukan Munaitpasov after a revered and fearsome Greco-Roman wrestler, this ground in the west of town was converted to a sports stadium in 1938. It consisted of one wooden stand, a cinder running track and football pitch, used by the first club in town, Lokomotiv.

But organised football only really took off in the wake of the Virgin Lands Campaign from the late 1950s onwards. A huge initiative to encourage a young workforce to move from European Russia to the wheatfields of Kazakhstan, where 1.5 million had starved to death in 1932 and 1933, it made a new frontier out of this distant republic. Workers needed sport and workers needed recreation. It wasn’t until 1984 that Tselinnik Tsenilograd won the Kazakh title, when it was in the third tier of the Soviet league system. But no club from Tsenilograd made the top flight, only Kairat from Almaty, who won the independent Kazakh league in 1992. Originally formed as Dinamo in 1964, Tselinnik Tsenilograd became Tsesna Akmola in 1994 with the change of city name. Akmola became Astana (‘Capital City’ in Kazakh) in 1998. These teams were all based at the Kazhymukan Munaitpasov. With all the investment being pumped into the new metropolis, its flagship football club upped its game. The now renamed Zhenis Astana won the title two years running, in 2000 and 2001, captained by Moscow-born Kazakh journeyman Yevgeni Lovchev. His goals in each leg of the club’s Champions League debut against Sheriff Tiraspol took the aggregate to 4-4, but the Transnistrians going through on the 3-2 scoreline at the Kazhymukan Munaitpasov. Under Dutchman Arno Pijpers, who had achieved near miracles with the Kazakhstan national team, the club, renamed to simply ‘Astana’, won the title again in 2006. In 2008, non-payment of transfer fees saw this original Astana demoted, then renamed (again) to Namys Astana once it was decided to create a new club in the capital: Lokomotiv Astana. The merger of two clubs from Almaty, FC Alma-Ata and Megasport, this new entity was taking advantage of both Astana’s demise and the opening of a new stadium, the Astana Arena. To avoid any further confusion, the previous Astana (ie previous Tselinnik Tsenilograd/Zhenis Astana) became FC Astana-1964 and Lokomotiv became today’s FC Astana. Unable to climb out of the second-flight First Division, Astana-1964 folded in 2014. The Kazhymukan Munaitpasov has mainly been used for rugby ever since. The new FC Astana won the Kazakh Cup in 2012, a European place in 2013, then the current string of league titles. [mapsmarker map="34"]

Getting Around

Arriving in town, local transport and timings

FC Barcelona transport/Peterjon Cresswell

Previous Next EU, UK and US nationals may currently travel to Kazakhstan visa-free for stays of up to 30 days. Astana Nursultan Nazarbayev International Airport is 17km (10.5 miles) south-east of the city centre. Two city buses run from the airport to town, the 10 and 12, setting off every 5-20mins. Both call at the Astana Arena, ten stops from the airport, before heading to the terminus of Astana train station at the northern edge of town. Ever-busy route 10 goes through the city centre to get there. Tickets are a flat-rate 90 tenge/€0.25, collected from staff who go round the bus once you’ve sat down. They give change, but not for big notes, so if you’re changing money at the airport, ask for smaller denominations. Express bus 100 (every 10-15mins, 150 tenge/€0.40) also runs from the airport into town, via the stadium, in 25mins rather than the 40min required for the regular services. Scores of routes criss-cross the city. English-language local transport resource EasyWay allows you to plan your journey. Halfway to the airport, the Astana Arena is too far to walk from town – you’ll need a bus or taxi. ECO TAXI (+7 707 555 0101) has a monopoly on services from airport to town. The fee should be 3,500 tenge/€9 but always agree a price beforehand. Many hotels also offer transfers. Around town, you’ll find street taxis everywhere, just wave one down. A journey across the city centre should be around 600 tenge/€1.50, or nearer 1,000 tenge/€2.50 if you’re crossing the river, ie to the stadium. Again, agree a price beforehand.

Where to Drink

The best pubs and bars for football fans

Previous Next Like the surrounding city itself, pub culture is a relatively new concept to these parts. What has sprung up veers between faux Irish ambiance and karaoke, with a very post-work vibe. Note that the standard kick-off times for midweek European games in the West is 1am here – but late-night opening isn’t usually a problem. Of late, beer culture has expanded beyond the standard requirement of single draught light and dark options – popular O’Hara Irish Pub, for example, offers a dozen. Expect to be paying around 800 tenge/€2 for a standard half-litre. Don’t be put off by the salty cheese strings that come with it. O’Hara’s also has live music at weekends, and TV screens, but for broadcast football, you’d do better at a branch of local chain Golpas. There’s one right in the shadow of the Bayterek Tower at Dinmukhamed Qonayev 35, where you’ll also find the Capital Music & Pub, somewhat soulless but with a big screen for sport. Much more bar-like, the Fair Play at Kenesary 48 near the Ramada Plaza is very much focused on the match. Its sister operation at Ibraya Altinsarina 5 is in similar vein. For football-gawping in more comfortable surroundings, then Mojo at Amangeldi Imanov 20 is pretty chic, with a restaurant and club as part of the complex. It’s under the same hospitality team as the convivial bar/restaurant Hungry Rabbit, at Säken Seyfullin 38. Another decent spot to watch the match is friendly pub/diner Chechil, its livelier branch at Qabanbay Batyr 2, the start of the long boulevard that leads to the stadium. Near the other Chechil outlet on Abay Avenue, Yamaika can be a lively party spot on its night, with plenty of screen action, too. Not that there’s much football there these days, but if you’re having a look at the Soviet-era Stadion Kazhymukan Munaitpasov, then the nearby Line Brew at Kenesary 20 is the brick-interior Astana outlet of this domestic brewery. A beer garden opens in summer.

Where to stay

The best hotels for the stadium and city centre

Teams, tales and tips – a guide to the local game

Former capital of Kazakhstan, Almaty is home to flagship club Kairat and shares the hosting of national team duties with the country’s new seat of government, Astana. Almaty has also been superseded by Astana when it comes to football. Since Kazakhstan gained independence from the USSR in 1991, only two titles have come Kairat’s way, the inaugural one of 1992 and another in 2004. Clubs from Aktobe, Astana and Karagandy have long outshone the opposition from Almaty. And Kairat are the only major team in Almaty – CSKA have never played in the top flight.

In terms of infrastructure, Astana’s outstanding new Arena, with its retractable roof and 30,000 capacity, also eclipses Almaty’s quaint, Soviet-era Ortalik Stadion – although both share duties when it comes to hosting the national team. Kazakhstan’s recent narrow defeat to Turkey took place at this oval bowl close to focal Republic Square. Also known as Central, the stadium dates back to the time when Kairat were formed, as a railway club in the 1950s. Kazakhstan was never a powerful force in the Soviet game. Clubs from what was then called Alma-Ata – Dinamo, Spartak – would often top the Kazakh Soviet league but never challenge at a higher level within the USSR. In fact, little is known about them today, nor the ‘Alma-Ata Selection’ who won the inaugural Kazakh Republic League of 1936. A Kazakh Cup was also instigated shortly after World War II.

Kairat, originally known as Lokomotiv, at least managed to emerge from this footballing backwater and reach the Soviet top flight for several seasons. After an all-time best-ever finish of seventh in 1986, the ‘People’s Team’ were well placed to win Kazakhstan’s first independent championship in 1992. Kazakhstan having first aligned itself in global football terms with Asia, its clubs missed out on UEFA competitions for this crucial first decade. Switching to Europe in 2002 – and adding huge journey times to everyone’s qualifying-stage logistic – it took Kairat four seasons before they actually won a European tie, against Kukësi of Albania in 2014.

But, following their 4-1 thrashing of Aktobe in the Kazakh Cup Final last November, Kairat at last claimed a big-name scalp in the current campaign, that of Red Star Belgrade. The club currently stand top of the Kazakh league. With few direct flights from the major capitals of Western Europe – British Airways has just announced it is closing its service from Heathrow – Almaty, near the border with China, has always been an exotic and expensive football getaway. Aberdeen’s visit for a Europa League fixture in July 2015 meant a round trip of some 11,000km for the Dons and 65 faithful fans. [mapsmarker map="34"]

Getting Around

Arriving in town, local transport and tips

Previous Next EU, UK and US nationals may currently travel to Kazakhstan visa-free for stays of up to 30 days. Almaty International Airport is 16km (ten miles) north-east of the city centre. City buses nos.79, 92, 86 and 106 run into town – no.92 stops by Otralik Stadion. The journey should take around 40min. Taxis are not metered in Almaty and rates from the airport vary wildly. The minimum is probably KZT2,000 (€9.50) but KZT4,000 (€19) is not uncommon. Agree a price beforehand – or agree a fee with your hotel for a pick-up. As incoming flights aren’t that frequent, you may not find a fleet of cab drivers to bargain with. A bus ticket is a standard KZT50/€0.25 – pay the driver on board, maybe after sorting out some small change at the terminal beforehand. City transport also includes a new metro system. Access the Soviet-style barriers by buying a plastic token (KZT80/€40) from the ticket office. Taxi Leader (+7 727 3 550 550) can also be booked online.

Where to Drink

The best pubs and bars for football fans

Previous Next Expat-friendly pubs and bars abound. Close to Republic Square and less than 1km from the stadium, the Dublin at Baiseitova 45 does decent food and allows you to reserve tables for TV matches. The Shakespeare is probably the best known, while, further out, the Old English Pub at Mametovoi 76A works on a similar formula of TV football, pub grub and ales, rarer varieties found at the Old English. Closer to town, the more music-oriented Soho Almaty Club has long been an expat magnet, with late opening hours at weekends. Bear in mind that some of the ladies in the house are on the prowl for foreign visitors. Lesser known and just finding its feet after a revamp, the small Caledonia is tucked away at Kazybek Bi Street 85, a short walk from Zhibek Zholy metro station.

Where to stay

The best hotels for the stadium and city centre

Previous Next With the lack of a proper tourist office, www.almaty-kazakhstan.net is as good a resource as any for hotel information. As the Central Stadium is just that, central, close to a metro station, almost any hotel is within reasonably easy reach. Right alongside are the Rahat Palace, a luxury five-star with pool, gym and sauna popular with visiting teams and officials, and the more functional Astana International (Baitursynov Street 113). Walking distance away are the simple, affordable Almaty Five Seasons (still referred to as the Mark Inn by many sources) and the reliably expensive InterContinental. Also nearby is the Holiday Inn. Most of the other high-end global chains are in town, including the shiny Ritz-Carlton. Near the metro station of Zhibek Zholy are the Kazzhol and the Konak Yui Uyut, both four-star and business-friendly. North of the stadium, the modern Hostel Nomads serves budget travellers." ["post_title"]=> string(6) "Almaty" ["post_excerpt"]=> string(0) "" ["post_status"]=> string(7) "publish" ["comment_status"]=> string(6) "closed" ["ping_status"]=> string(4) "open" ["post_password"]=> string(0) "" ["post_name"]=> string(6) "almaty" ["to_ping"]=> string(0) "" ["pinged"]=> string(0) "" ["post_modified"]=> string(19) "2021-12-27 22:53:45" ["post_modified_gmt"]=> string(19) "2021-12-27 22:53:45" ["post_content_filtered"]=> string(0) "" ["post_parent"]=> int(0) ["guid"]=> string(36) "https://old.liberoguide.com/?p=11128" ["menu_order"]=> int(0) ["post_type"]=> string(4) "post" ["post_mime_type"]=> string(0) "" ["comment_count"]=> string(1) "0" ["filter"]=> string(3) "raw" } } ["post_count"]=> int(2) ["current_post"]=> int(-1) ["before_loop"]=> bool(true) ["in_the_loop"]=> bool(false) ["post"]=> object(WP_Post)#4876 (24) { ["ID"]=> int(24448) ["post_author"]=> string(1) "3" ["post_date"]=> string(19) "2017-08-18 21:05:03" ["post_date_gmt"]=> string(19) "2017-08-18 21:05:03" ["post_content"]=> string(16742) "

Teams, tales and tips – a guide to the local game

Getting Around

Arriving in town, local transport and timings

Where to Drink

The best pubs and bars for football fans

Where to stay

The best hotels for the stadium and city centre

Previous Next Visit Kazakhstan has a database of hotels and online booking function. Hotels in Nur-Sultan cater to the business community, and rates are high. On the plus side, for your money you’ll be staying in some of the wackiest- designed lodgings in any European football city. In the complex around the Astana Arena, the Alau typifies the genre, all bizarre geometry outside, business-friendly sheen within. Booking direct through the hotel, rates start at 20,000 tenge/€50 a single, €35,000/€90 a double. Also close to the stadium but not quite walkable, the Royal Park is a quality hotel and spa, with a pool and restaurants thrown in. Its zany exterior sits just off the main avenue to the Arena, Qabanbay Batyr. Also just off Qabanbay Batyr but closer to town, the five-star Astana Marriott sits in the shadow of the landmark Bayterek Tower. Expect a high-end spa, pool, gym and jacuzzi. Nearby, the Rixos President probably has the best spa in the city, with a handful of international restaurants and the glitziest Irish Pub you could ever hope to find. Still south of the river and right on the avenue for the stadium, the Hilton Garden Inn Astana keeps it gym, restaurant, restaurants and chic bar behind a contemporary exterior. To stay in the city centre, the Ramada Plaza can offer a gym, pool and restaurant, within walking distance of a few pubs and malls." ["post_title"]=> string(10) "Nur-Sultan" ["post_excerpt"]=> string(0) "" ["post_status"]=> string(7) "publish" ["comment_status"]=> string(6) "closed" ["ping_status"]=> string(4) "open" ["post_password"]=> string(0) "" ["post_name"]=> string(6) "astana" ["to_ping"]=> string(0) "" ["pinged"]=> string(0) "" ["post_modified"]=> string(19) "2022-09-04 16:17:18" ["post_modified_gmt"]=> string(19) "2022-09-04 16:17:18" ["post_content_filtered"]=> string(0) "" ["post_parent"]=> int(0) ["guid"]=> string(36) "https://old.liberoguide.com/?p=24448" ["menu_order"]=> int(0) ["post_type"]=> string(4) "post" ["post_mime_type"]=> string(0) "" ["comment_count"]=> string(1) "8" ["filter"]=> string(3) "raw" } ["comment_count"]=> int(0) ["current_comment"]=> int(-1) ["found_posts"]=> int(2) ["max_num_pages"]=> int(1) ["max_num_comment_pages"]=> int(0) ["is_single"]=> bool(false) ["is_preview"]=> bool(false) ["is_page"]=> bool(false) ["is_archive"]=> bool(true) ["is_date"]=> bool(false) ["is_year"]=> bool(false) ["is_month"]=> bool(false) ["is_day"]=> bool(false) ["is_time"]=> bool(false) ["is_author"]=> bool(false) ["is_category"]=> bool(true) ["is_tag"]=> bool(false) ["is_tax"]=> bool(false) ["is_search"]=> bool(false) ["is_feed"]=> bool(false) ["is_comment_feed"]=> bool(false) ["is_trackback"]=> bool(false) ["is_home"]=> bool(false) ["is_privacy_policy"]=> bool(false) ["is_404"]=> bool(false) ["is_embed"]=> bool(false) ["is_paged"]=> bool(false) ["is_admin"]=> bool(false) ["is_attachment"]=> bool(false) ["is_singular"]=> bool(false) ["is_robots"]=> bool(false) ["is_favicon"]=> bool(false) ["is_posts_page"]=> bool(false) ["is_post_type_archive"]=> bool(false) ["query_vars_hash":"WP_Query":private]=> string(32) "135bfba2f0bb85ad0480e41b1dfdd5f4" ["query_vars_changed":"WP_Query":private]=> bool(false) ["thumbnails_cached"]=> bool(false) ["allow_query_attachment_by_filename":protected]=> bool(false) ["stopwords":"WP_Query":private]=> NULL ["compat_fields":"WP_Query":private]=> array(2) { [0]=> string(15) "query_vars_hash" [1]=> string(18) "query_vars_changed" } ["compat_methods":"WP_Query":private]=> array(2) { [0]=> string(16) "init_query_flags" [1]=> string(15) "parse_tax_query" } ["query_cache_key":"WP_Query":private]=> string(41) "wp_query:bc0ed4d5a7576682f8d6f536c1bf5ac3" }

By Peterjon Astana Club Kazakhstan

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